Monday, July 14, 2008

Surfing..

Well I'm not a pro surfer like our dear friend DT, but I always wanted to surf, it's funny that I started snowboarding before I started surfing in the ocean, but it's just that I never really knew where to start.

It's not that common in Israel, even though there are many people who do it, I personally never encountered anyone who surf , except for one, he even promised to teach me how to surf, be he left work so we're not talking anymore..

Anyways, yesterday I finally fulfilled a long time dream, and bought my first Surf-Board, Spider 6"3 board, nice one for my 5"11 height, and I went to the ocean with the guy from the store.

My first thought were: "ahh, that's look easy" when I saw other people surf, but when I tried, I was a mess, I could only stand after the wave already passed by, or sometimes I get into the turbulence of the wave and get sucked right into the ocean floor, and the funny thing is, that I didn't swallow so much ocean water..

Anyways, there were so many Jellyfish since last week, that I didn't even saw them and I still all stinged out, all of my body hurt, my chest is full of bites, my hands, I can't move my pinkie finger, but I still have a smile!

I fulfilled a long time dream, and I will be actively surfing through the warm summer of Israel, before or after work.. I work close to the beach, so it fits me well.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Glad to see you got to try surfing!! I tried once in Hawaii - thought I was going to drown, very scary. I should have tried somewhere where the waves weren't quite so...authentic.

Dinosaur Trader said...

Very nice! It's a great sport for us traders.

My suggestion... go back to the store and ask the guy if there are any good longboard breaks, and start there...

It's way easier to start on a longer, more bouyant board.

-DT

Tomer said...

Yeah the guy from the store told me that I can change board to whatever I want in the first 4 months, adding / substructing the price of it.

He also mentioned that I should use longboard for start, but I'll give it about two times more, and if I won't be able to stand, I'll get back to basics..